view of Panthertown Valley from Salt Rock Gap
updated 10-1-07 - Several concerned visitors to my site have been asking about Carlton McNeill, unofficial trail builder and keeper of Panthertown Valley. Carlton lived in the small house by the side of the road on the left just before the right turn into the drive for the east side parking area for the Valley. I'm very sad to report that Carlton passed away on July 20, 2007 at 86 years old. As you enter Panthertown Valley, let Carlton's spirit be your guide and remember these words from one of Carlton's favorite poems - House by the Side of the Road by Sam Foss
There are pioneer souls that blaze the paths
Where highways never ran-
But let me live by the side of the road
And be a friend to man.
Panthertown Valley is a little known 6700 acre piece of hiking Heaven in the Nantahala National Forest in Jackson County. It's been nicknamed 'the Yosemite of the East' and is home to granite domes, waterfalls, valley floors and rare high altitude bogs. The area is a maze of unmarked trails going off in every direction, and holds the headwaters for Greenland and Panthertown Creeks and the East Fork of the Tuckasegee River. If you want to really do some exploring here, you will need a trail map and a compass. The only trail map that I have seen was done by Burt Kornegay, renowned wilderness outfitter and guide, and is available for $6 at Slickrock Expeditions. Mountain biking and horseback riding are also allowed in the Panthertown and the map shows which trails allow bikes.
A very few years ago, the Forest Service began planning and is now implementing the Panthertown Trail Project. Some of the plans include trail repair, bridge replacement, signs and trail markers (yeah!), and parking improvements. The main trails have been in horrible shape for quite a while. As many of you know, the legendary Carlton McNeill carved quite a few of the side trails through the valley and over the mountains. I'm sure the Forest Service frowns on this type of activity and I think the plan includes doing away with some of these trails, so the Kornegay map might eventually show trails that don't exist any more. I've hiked most of these trails and always found Carlton's trails to be in very good shape. My guess is that some of these trails were in ecologically sensitive areas. There may be a new map out from the Forest Service. I haven't seen it, but I saw a couple a week ago with what looked like a new map Here's a link to a map from the forest service for the new Panthertown trails. It's from June 2004 and shows proposed actions. If you have any questions, you can call the Highlands Ranger District at 828-526-3765.
Primitive camping is allowed and the National Forest rules apply. Refer to the Kornegay map to help with the following directions. If you are coming in from the west entrance, follow the trails to the shelter just west of Big Green Mountain. There are a few more sites past the shelter along the trail next to Panthertown Creek. The sites aren't on the creek if that's what you are picturing in your mind. If you are coming in from the east, head down the trail towards Schoolhouse Falls. Keep straight past the side trail on the left to Schoolhouse, cross what's left of the bridge and continue generally east down the main trail. In less than 10 minutes at an average pace, cross another bridge and take the trail to the right. A small stand of pines on the left and right provide a level camping area for several people. If you prefer a nice rhodo thicket near the base of a waterfall to camp in, come in the east entrance and head down the main trail towards Schoolhouse Falls. At the 'T' intersection of the main trail, the left trail to Schoolhouse Falls before the bridge, and the right trail to Wardens Falls, take the right trail towards Wardens. In 8-10 minutes come to the left trail to Wardens Falls. Keep going for another 10 minutes or so, crossing Little Green Creek. Come to a fork and take the left lower trail. Just a short distance down this trail is a side trail to the left that leads down to the base of Middle Wardens Falls and a couple or 4 sites. There also some hidden sites scattered throughout the area. Please use common sense and don't camp in sensitive areas.
The valley was heavily logged in the 30's and suffered majors fires and erosion in the 60's, so there are almost no old growth trees left. Despite this and Duke Power running a major power lane through the area in the late 80's, Panthertown Valley has made a comeback and is now home to a wide variety of flora and fauna, including the carnivorous sundew pictured below that KT spotted. Some of the plants are rare, so please stick to the trails, don't trample vegetation, and try to avoid the moss and lichens growing on the rock faces in the higher altitudes. In 1989, the land was purchased from Duke Power by the NC Chapter of the Nature Conservancy and added as part of the Nantahala National Forest - Highlands Ranger District. In September '03, Panthertown Valley was officially designated the James and Elspeth Clarke Forest. Democrat Clarke served 3 terms in the US House of Representatives and led the 1987-88 effort to obtain funding to transfer Panthertown Valley to the US Forest Service.
I've hiked in this area many times now and will never get tired of going back. My 1st trip was in October '99 and my most recent trip was in August 2006 - the photos are a combination of all trips. There are 2 entrances to the valley as mentioned above. To gain access from the east side, take 281 north from Hwy 64 a mile or so then veer off to left onto Cold Mountain Road. A fire station will be on your right. Cold Mountain Road winds past Lake Toxaway where the rich people live, then turns into gravel and heads up the mountain. From 281, 3.9 miles up the road on the right you may see a small waterfall called Shower Falls on the right. It tends to be a trickle in dry weather. If you look at the telephone poles on the way up you will see small numbers on yellow and black tags. Just past pole #61 on the left - 4.5 miles from 281 - you can park and follow a trail down to Raven Rock Falls. The trailhead is past the pole and it's well worth the 1/2 mile or so hike.
Keep going up Cold Mountain and at 5.7 miles total you'll see Canaan Land on the right. The road straight ahead is now gated (the old entrance), but you can take a left and head up the road a few hundred yards to a single lane drive on the right. On my most recent trip, there is a forest service sign just as you turn left, but some idiot has torn down the one indicating the right turn to the parking area, but the arrow is still there. There's a small old house on the left where the previously mentioned Carlton McNeill used to live. Carlton was an elderly gentleman who carved a lot of the narrow foot trails through Panthertown and kept them up. There is also now a sign right past the turn into the parking area saying that straight ahead is private Lake Toxaway Estates property. Just as you turn right, notice a trail on the left that will take you towards Greenland Creek Falls. Keep going up the deeply rutted drive to the parking area. The trail head is just to the right of the gate at the end of the lot. Land to the right side of the lot is private Canaan Land property and is posted..
Access from the west side is reached by driving 8 miles on Hwy 64 west from the 281 south intersection to Cedar Creek Road. Take a right, go 2.3 miles and take a right on Breedlove Road, then almost 4 miles to the parking area. Near the end, the road changes to dirt and has some pretty major bumps and dips.
You can click below to see a particular falls or area if that's what you have in mind. Here's where I've been so far...
Greenland Creek Trail - this page includes Greenland Creek Falls, Carlton Falls, Schoolhouse Falls and a photo tour of Greenland Creek in between the 2.
Tuckasegee River - here are the 3 sections of Warden's Falls. You could spend half a day here easily.
Devil's Elbow - allow a half to full day to enjoy this beautiful area
The West Entrance - this entrance is closer to Granny Burrell and Frolictown Creek Falls as well as the views from Blackrock and Big Green Mountains.
Extra Photos - here are 2 more pages of other shots from Panthertown Valley